Distance: Roughly 660km
Time: We took one week, but could easily have taken a few!
There mere thought of Western Australia’s rugged Kimberley wilderness conjures up so many emotions. As you’ll see across the entire region, Mother Nature is at her absolute finest; silencing even the most discerning and well-travelled amongst us.
It’s a place to feel the true power of Mother Nature.
So before we even get onto one of the most adventurous road trips in the country, I want to give you a taste of what you’ll be treated to…
The Gibb River Road
The Gibb River Road is a 660 km track right through the wild heart of the Kimberley, stretching from east to west. A former cattle route, it’s one of the regions main attractions, and when you’re on it you can see why.
For starters, it encapsulates the vastness of the wild Australian landscape. The red dirt, the enormous rocky escarpments, the piercing blue sky with a relentless sun beating down; and not a soul in sight.
I will never forget navigating our way along the bumpy corrugated road. The vehicle was alive with conversation about how Aboriginals lived in these harsh conditions for 60 thousand years, let alone how on earth the pioneering settlers even survived.
Of course there are many options to explore the region; a 4WD of your own (make sure you have more than one spare tyre and do your research about proper preparation!) or take a 4WD tour (such as an APT Kimberley Wilderness Adventure). We’ve done both, and I must admit it added another dimension when we had our tour guide, “Digger”, and could sit back, relax and enjoy his expertise and passion.
The Gibb River Road is filled with stories, stop and take the time to learn.
Digger was passionate about sharing the stories of the region. Our first stop after leaving Broome was the ‘Prison’ Boab Tree, where he explained the confronting reality of how it was used as a prison cell during the time of conflict with the local Aboriginals. The Kimberley is one of only a very few places in the world where this distinctive tree grows, and it’s somewhat of an icon for the region, as well as being intertwined with its history.
Back on the road, we travelled into the area where the infamous Jandamarra from the Bunuba tribe, led one of the few organized armed conflicts against European colonisation of Australia in the 1890’s. In the King Leopold ranges, we stopped to relive a little of the history, and waded our way through the shallow waters inside Tunnel creek, passing the ancient boulders he used as shelter before being captured.
The road leads you to countless highlights
Windjana Gorge National Park
It’s the prehistoric landscape that gets me. It’s majestic.
Windjana Gorge National Park is one of the Kimberley’s most stunning gorges. The 3.5km long gorge cuts through the Napier Range, which is part of the ancient Devonian limestone reef.
Sitting inside the gorge, it was like we were in a Cathedral. Surrounding by 100m water-streaked walls, we could hear the call of the corellas, and just metres away fresh water crocodiles were basking in the midday sun.
Bell Gorge
We’d only been away from civilisation for a few days, and already the surrounds had completely silenced my mind. A brilliant place to stop is Bell Gorge. It’s about 30km’s off the Gibb River Road, but well worth the effort. Make sure you prepare for the walk in, it can be a little slippery at times but you are rewarded at the end with a stunning tiered waterfall cascading into a tranquil gorge. Pack your bathers for a swim in the watering holes. The hardest part was leaving.
Mitchell Falls.
Further along the Gibb River Road (about 350km north-east of Derby) and taking a left up the Kalumburu Road, travel north towards what is in our minds, one of the absolute highlights.
The Mitchell Falls, on the Mitchell Plateau, are among the most photographed attractions in the region, and for good reason.
The Mitchell Falls are a place of cultural and spiritual significance to the Wunambal people and we were lucky enough to meet Joey, a local Aboriginal elder, and his girlfriend Erica. Joey spent the day sharing his backyard with us. Not only a place he spent running around as a child with his family, but a place where he comes to today to reconnect with his past and his culture.
The walk on the Mitchell Plateau to the Mitchell Falls is not arduous but takes the better part of half a day. Along the way however you are treated to incredible caves where Joey pointed out ancient and prolific Gwion-Bradshaw rock art galleries by his ancestors thousands of years ago.
He aptly described the area as ‘god’s country’. “If only I could be here for a day with them” he said. “I love that they have left their hand prints – whenever I am here I feel connected to them”.
No photo or video can ever do this place justice (but we try, so check out this video!)
Make sure you allow around 4 – 6 hours for the 6km walk in so that you have enough time to take in the beautiful four-tiered waterfall (the walk is moderate to difficult at times).
There are plenty of places to stop along the way and soak in the majestic scenery, with smaller and larger waterfalls whetting your appetite for the main event. I will never forget sitting on the edge of Merton Falls mesmerised by the power of the water, roaring like a thunder over a landscape that would not have changed for tens of thousands of years.
At Mitchell Falls itself, take in the grandeur of these enormous four-tiered falls and think about the stories of its traditional owners who believe the Rainbow Serpent itself carved the dramatic cliff walls.
And the best way out? By chopper of course. Get one of the best views from the sky as you hover over the falls and take in their scale. Helicopter tours operate here regularly through the day during the season.
El Questro Wilderness Park
There is one final place you absolutely must experience along the Gibb River Road before you reach civilisation again at the other end – the million-acre property of El Questro.
In the East Kimberley, this former cattle station turned its hand to tourism and has something for everyone. From camping under the stars, to glamping or you can even stay in the much revered and luxurious homestead.
There is so much to do here – from hiking through ancient gorges, to swimming in the natural watering holes or soaking in the natural hot springs, to fishing for Barramundi in locations only accessible by helicopter, or an early morning horse ride to watch the sun rise.
But for me the highlight was having a picnic with my family under a boab tree, basking in the warm Kimberley air, the smell of the outback surrounding us and watching that magnificent Kimberley sunset.
How can I ever describe what that sunset is like?
It takes up the whole sky, and silenced us all.
I miss this place, in my bones.
Accommodation
A lot of people ask us where to stay in such a remote part of the world – there are plenty of places that you will find online. But here are a few of the places we stayed, and absolutely loved.
Mitchell Falls Wilderness Lodge
Discovery Parks BIG4 – Lake Kununurra
Cable Beach Club Resort and Spa
El Questro Wilderness Lodge – Emma Gorge Resort
So, have you taken the journey along the Gibb River Road, or are you thinking about it? Ask me as many questions about the trip as you would like in the comments, we have been a few times and I always love to talk travel.
Looks stunning and easy to fall in love with.
I’ll get there one day !.
So easy to fall in love with Les, one of those places that seems to call you back too! Have you done much travelling in Australia? The Kimberly is without doubt one of the most impressive / grand places I have ever been to that is for sure!! Jen:)
Going in July can’t wait Marie
Lucky duck! enjoy enjoy! Have you been before? What are your plans? Would love to know!! Jen:)
Did the Gibb river road in 2011 and it was fantastic I will do it again.
What were your highlights Wayne? Much different to mine, or did you do similar things? Would love to know and get more ideas! Jen 🙂
One day with a $WD we are going to do it.
Thanks for the inspiration of words, photos and videos.
Yeah you certainly need a good sturdy car that is for sure! Send us a pick one day when you finally get there! When we went the first time we were in our own 4WD, and I must say the roads were way better than I had in my mind.,. totally possible for all of us these days – but yet still so remote that you know you are on a brilliant Australian Outback adventure! Thanks for the comment – Jen 🙂
Going in July/August Doing if slowly so we can see and experience EVERYTHING! Can’t wait. Your photos are so inspirational.
would love love love you to send us some picks Trish – would be so cool to share any of your journey with our little travelling community if you ever feel inclined! How long are you going for? Jen 🙂
We are heading up on the 12/6 and will start Gibb river on the 25/6. 4wd all kitted up and we are excited to head off.
Your videos look great!.
Gosh there are a few of you in this group that are heading up soon! How very cool, would love some pics if you are open to sharing .. love how we all share our experiences together. How long are you going for? What kind of car etc? Have you done big trips like this before? Gosh .. so many questions from me! Can’t help myself in asking :!! Jen;)
wow simply amazing. I had scrimped and saved for this trip back in 2010, doing a 4WD trip from Broome to Darwin with the Gibb river road. The day we arrived in Broome it started raining and didn’t stop. We did actually manage to get to the first crossing on the Gibb but we got bogged and had to wait for a big grader to get us out, , Bungle Bungles, gates closed due to the big wet, Kunnurra, Flight cancelled due to big wet. Oh boy what a disastrous trip. I was so shattered as it was the big ticket item on my bucket list. I hope to get a chance to do it again.
It looks amazing. Thank you for sharing your journey
Gosh! can’t believe you needed a big grader to get you out! Where were you on the Gibb? Was it raining? Did you actually get stuck in the river crossing itself? What time of year was that? Thanks for your comments, that’s the hard part of travel… I actually remember ending up in tears once on the side of the road heading to Uluru from Birdsville because we did two flat tyres in about half an hour and it just wasn’t safe enough to continue. We had to turn around and head on the bitumen via Mt Isa…..I was so determined to “experience” driving to the centre across the desert, but wasn’t meant to be that time… Thanks for adding your comments on this, as the weather in that part of the world is crucial to really experience it I guess. I really hope you get the chance to do it again too, does it look likely? Jen
Why have I left it so. Long to do?
I must start getting organised.
The footage is amazing, thanks!
Make sure you do Kev! You won’t be disappointed I can certainly promise you that – thanks very much for your comments and kind words – Jen 🙂
Wow! This is definitely a trip that is on my list! And you’ve made it look even better!! Thank you… this blog will help along the way I’m sure! Thank you!
Thanks for your comments Emma, it is certainly a beautiful part of the world that is for sure. We are focused on sharing all of our road trips with you all, so many incredible places in a backyard of ours! Jen:)
what time of the year did you do this , or what is the best time to do it
Hi Steve, We have been a few times – and the time we had the best weather I would say was June – it was just perfect. Jen:)
FYI – August and September fantastic too !!! (I need to add that.)The Dry season is May to September. Cheers@Jen
W.A. is a place I have always wanted to go especially the Kimberleys. One day fingers crossed
Where are you from Joanne? I can’t get enough of WA – both north and South and everywhere in between! We are also heading to Margaret River this year, which is another beauty 🙂
Travelled the Gibb River Road last year, and loved it. The road was good, but we did not visit Mitchell Falls because we were told the road in was extremely rough, and there was no water coming over the falls. It gives us a reason to go back.
What time of year did you visit Fay? Def a reason to go back, the power of those falls is incredible. When we went there had been a lot of rain, so they were in full force that is for sure :- thanks for your comment. Jen
Looks fantastic. My wife and I are heading up the centre and through the Kimberly at the start of July. It is a trip we have been planning for a couple of years and we are really looking forward to our 3 month trip. 4 weeks to go!!! Cant wait.
Also left out that the kids are so excited. oops.
Perfect timing to be heading there Mark! Gosh what I’d do to be heading there with our little tribe this July!! Sounds fantastic, how old are your kids? And are you going in a Caravan or staying in tents, or lodges/hotels? Always interesting to know. If you have any more questions on where to go, don’t hesitate to drop us another comment here – always love chatting about that part of the world!@ Jen
Thanks Jen,
The kids are 10 and 12 and we are heading up with our caravan and then tenting it for a while up to Mitchell Falls. Its out last chance before our daughter heads to high school next year. We are all getting so excited, but still have plenty of things to organise at home before we head off. We will be running our own little blog/website to keep all our family and friends updated with our adventures. It will be a good project for the kids.
Mark
Sounds fantastic Mark. If your blog ends up being more than just for family and friends, let us know and we would love to follow and share with the community and support you in any way! Just let me know – travel is so good for kids, there is just nothing like it – not only for the kids education (especially areas like the Kimberley) but for family dynamics, being adaptable, adventurous etc, it’s just the best isn’t it! Jen:)
Hi thank you for sharing your trip.
My partner, 8 year old step son and another couple and my self are planning a 4 week round driving trip form Perth next June/July, with a 20 day trip along the gibb river road. I’m doing as much reading up as I can to put together a plan, however I am struggling with finding out the approx driving times between camps, supply stops and attractions, would you have any points or references i would be able to look up?
Any held is very much apreciated
Thank you
OH it’s on my list but probably waiting for retirement……… oh so far away! Great shots, looks amazing. But one thing, we are Aussies Jen, they are tyres still aren’t they?? Not tires.