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Tramping New Zealand’s Hollyford Track

Caroline Pemberton | April 9, 2014 | 3:33 pm | 4 Comments

Fiordland National Park in New Zealand’s South Island boasts both dramatic scenery and a living, breathing personality. With glacier-capped mountains, ancient rainforests and pristine, azure rivers running to rugged NZ coastline, it’s the variance in weather conditions, the endlessly changing skies, the prickle of sun and then the rain on your skin that brings it to life.

Tramping New Zealand's Hollyford Track - at the start
With guide Bard, at the start of the journey

We are embarking on a three-day adventure here by tramping New Zealand’s Hollyford Track. I want to call it a trek, but it’s so much more than that, for this is an “experience”. We will explore 56 kilometres of this spectacular wilderness region by foot, by jetboat and finally by helicopter.

By starting on foot we have time to get a real sense of the Hollyford Valley. Bard, our incredible guide, regales us with stories and with his words, every nook and cranny of the valley springs to life. He teaches me some Maori words, like ‘tumeke’ which means ‘too much’. Too much wonder, too much to take in, too much feeling in a place like this.

Tramping New Zealand - the Hollyford Valley
The incredible Hollyford Valley

We meander along the bank of the Hollyford River, bounce our way across suspension bridges and trek into deep forest. I wonder what the ancient trees might say if they could talk. Perhaps they would tell of the Maori looking for valuable green stone, or stories of the Europeans looking to cultivate these lands.

Our first day has been a long one and just as fatigue threatens, we arrive at a stunning homely lodge. Inside we find a delicious meal of venison cooked to perfection by hosts who make you feel like honoured guests. A hot shower and warm bed that night is spectacularly welcome.

We set off again the next day back on the mighty Hollyford River. Crystal clear glacier waters run swiftly down the valley and we hitch a ride on the flow, zipping through the rapids on a jetboat! Without the canopy of the forest, the vast skies open to reveal the mountains in all their glory. Snow-capped despite the sun, they hug and protect this remote area, keeping it isolated from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

Tramping New Zealand - Part of the Hollyford Track is by jetboat
Jetboating is just one of the ways you complete the track

The kilometres quickly disappear and we are soon back on foot, passing through paddocks of yellow flowers. Bard tells us of the settlers who attempted to farm here, yet failed dismally. I wonder if their hard work was somehow thwarted by the Gods, who intended to keep these lands unspoilt. A pocket of nature’s untamed paradise left for us to explore.

I notice that the air has changed; the crispness of the alpine environment has given way to softer warmth. Briny air fills our lungs as the forest turns into a luscious coastal garden. Almost by surprise we’ve reached the ocean, the sun sparkles across the water and the sand dunes bear no footprints. It’s surreal that just this morning we were gawking up at icy glaciers! Tramping in New Zealand is unique like that; while it’s a relatively small space it boasts incredible diversity.

Tramping New Zealand - reaching the coast
When the forest meets the sea, this is what welcomes you on the coast

Our day ends at another luxury lodge and tonight we feast on fresh crayfish and salmon. Bard toasts the Hollyford and we clink glasses. Morning breaks and a helicopter blasts onto the front lawn. We yell our farewells above the whip of the rotor-blades and we’re off, lifting up over Martin’s Bay and scooting along the coastline. Filled with deep gratitude we take in majestic Fiordland one last time and from the best vantage point of them all.

The Hollyford, truly a tumeke experience!

Places We Go travelled to New Zealand thanks to Tourism New Zealand and the Hollyford Track.

Would you like to go tramping in New Zealand? Drop us a comment if you’ve been on the Hollyford Track too!

About Caroline Pemberton

With an insatiable appetite for all things travel, Caroline has spent her life travelling, both on and off camera and is up for any challenge! In fact the more challenging the better!

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Comments

  1. Anthony Mitchell says

    April 12, 2014 at 4:47 pm

    Tu Miki…
    Fantastic, I have been to Milford Sound and are seriously thinking of the Hollyford Track.
    Thanks Guys Enjoyed watching this. Cheers

    Reply
  2. Angela Martin says

    April 12, 2014 at 4:49 pm

    Would like to do this 3 day trek. Can you please give me a price for this for 2 persons – our date/time is open. Thank you Angela Martin XXXX XXX XXX

    Reply
    • emma says

      April 12, 2014 at 7:53 pm

      Hi Angela, we agree it is a wonderful experience! The Hollyford Track is currently offering a great deal for Places We Go viewers that you may be able to take advantage of. See https://placeswego.com/traveldeal/book-the-3-day-hollyford-track-guided-walk-and-get-free-pre-post-walk-accommodation/ and click through to their website to make an enquiry, the friendly team there will be sure to help you out! Thanks so much for watching 🙂

      Reply
  3. Sue Lim says

    April 16, 2014 at 1:25 am

    It really beautiful! I would love to go there one day! Is the nature like God create! It makes you feel very peaceful while you enjoy the scenery! Is in my bucket list then! 🙂

    Reply
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