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Driving Tasmania’s Western Wilds… Corinna

Clint Bizzell | May 29, 2019 | 9:28 pm | 17 Comments

Just when you think you have driven most of the iconic Tasmanian self-drive routes… along comes the Western Wilds.

It is a region in the west of Tasmania that has always existed on the tourist map, but the depth of its stories, people, history and natural wonders are only just beginning to be truly recognised.

And you have ever wondered if there is actually ‘much there’ – think again.

western wilds

A journey through the Western Wilds is an adventure on the road less travelled. And this is the absolute beauty of it. With some of the most pristine and ancient wilderness on the planet, this part of Tasmania is nature at its very best. And don’t expect to have to share it with the crowds… yet.

It is also a region brimming with stories. Multi-generational tales that stretch from ancient Aboriginal culture to the days of ‘mining and pining’ and resilient pioneers who built lives in the untamed environment.

western wilds

To start my own journey into the Western Wilds, I got on the road straight out of Launceston airport and, leaving the city behind, drove a few easy hours to the west. Skirting Cradle Mountain, I headed for Corinna – the first stop on the journey. Within those few hours, I felt like we passed into another world.

western wilds
Corinna Wilderness Retreat

The tiny mining town of Corinna, which has been transformed into a sustainable wilderness retreat using much of the historic town infrastructure, was to be my home for a couple of nights and is tucked into some of the most breathtaking rainforest I had ever seen. But don’t expect to arrive in Corinna and immediately upload pics to Instagram. You are almost off the grid here and that is the point.

western wilds
The Tarkine Hotel

On the banks of the stunning Pieman River which leads straight to the coast of the wild Southern Ocean, Corinna Wilderness Retreat takes the ‘retreat’ part seriously. With the addition of sixteen eco-cabins built in the original style, plus the refurbishment of the original Tarkine Hotel, the General Store, the old butchers shop and original Roadmans cottage, it is a charming place to stop and take a big deep breath of some of the cleanest air in the world. Time to switch off.

western wilds
The beautiful Pieman River

But people don’t laze around in Corinna. There are river cruises, kayaks, walking tracks, waterfalls and more to experience. The name of the game here is getting out and into the wilderness.

western wilds
The Arcadia II

I jumped on board the Arcadia II river boat. Made of Huon Pine in 1939, she has so much history on her own and this is one of the most popular activities for guests at Corinna. A cruise down the Pieman River is like a journey back in time. Ancient rainforest and the famed Huon pine trees, some close to 4000 years old, surround you as you drift along water that reflects the beauty surrounding it. And it is a privilege to be one of the only few who get to witness the stunning waterfalls we see along the way.

western wilds
Lovers Falls

Our skipper Tony delivers a passionate commentary throughout and it is clear that he is enamoured with the environment he is so lucky to call his ‘office’.

“…It’s very peaceful… there is not a more pristine place in the world as far as I know, as once you get around the corner and lose sight of Corinna – it is as it was 20,000 years ago when this forest first started to grow. I don’t know where else in the world where it grows like this…”.

western wilds
On board with Tony

I am sure everyone on the boat envied him and his life at some point.

It got me thinking about the incredible difference between the people who, in the late 1800’s, called this region home in its heyday of mining, and the people who today carve out a life for themselves amongst the wilderness. Each group there for very different reasons, yet, centuries apart, lived among the very same trees on the very same river.

western wilds
Kayaking the Pieman

Returning to the ‘township’, it was time to do a little exploration under my own steam and with kayaks available for guests to use, I grabbed one and headed out for a peaceful paddle. Joined by one of the staff, Patrick, I learned he discovered Corinna as a traveller and simply couldn’t bring himself to leave… “I reckon there are very few places like Corinna in Tasmania… I love how isolated it is… how it’s still not really on the tourism radar, and to be situated within a rainforest… there’s hardly any sign of civilisation”.

western wilds
At the edge of the world…

Finally, you can’t come to Corinna and not spend an evening in the Tarkine Hotel. This is the ‘old pub’ which played a role in the lives of hundreds of workers who lived in Corinna in the late 1800’s. Today it has been restored and continues to be a meeting place, this time for guests. History oozes from its walls – if only they could talk.

western wilds
Chatting with Peter in the hotel bar

We enjoy a drink and meal with Peter, a site supervisor at Corinna who can share a story or two and we find out Corinna was once the roughest mining town in Australia, and this wasn’t exactly helped by its two pubs which sat on either side of the river.

western wilds

These days however, it is a place of peace, solitude, and the epitome of ‘getting back to nature’. The stories of the past inhabitants, however, are never far from your mind.

As we continue our road trip through the Western Wilds, towards Queenstown and then onto Maydena, I can’t help but wonder about those early pioneering settlers who called this wild part of the world home. Click through to follow more of my journey through the Western Wilds!

About Clint Bizzell

From climbing mountains, to finding himself in bronco-branding competitions in the Outback, Clint is always up for a good time and willing to give anything a go. Clint enjoyed 12 years as an AFL footballer, but these days he shares his love for the world and it's people through Places We Go.

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Comments

  1. Damien Kennedy says

    May 30, 2019 at 2:18 pm

    Looks incredible. Thanks for the info. Can’t wait to check it out some day.

    Reply
  2. Lyn says

    May 30, 2019 at 3:34 pm

    You’ve inspired me to visit this area and stay awhile. Although am a Tasmanian haven’t spent any time in this area. Enjoyable read.

    Reply
  3. NANCYE says

    May 30, 2019 at 4:23 pm

    AMAZING PLACE SURE WOULD LOVE TO VISIT

    Reply
  4. Ross says

    May 30, 2019 at 4:31 pm

    That is a great blog, Clint. I love Tasmania and plan to return soon. I certainly have not been in the Pieman
    River or Corinn area.

    Reply
  5. Marguerite McNeill says

    May 30, 2019 at 5:00 pm

    Your video has captured some of what makes Tasmania’s west coast so special.
    Your story has only just begun…. there is so much more to share about the unique character of the region and the people who choose to live and work there.

    Reply
  6. Kevin Smith says

    May 30, 2019 at 6:23 pm

    If did a week of self drive in Tassie but I only scratched the surface..
    Definitely a place to go back and give it the time it deserves.
    Nice pics.
    Kev

    Reply
  7. David Stewart says

    May 30, 2019 at 6:39 pm

    So beautiful and the people you meet I am from Wollongong NSW and 55 retirement will be seeking Australia adventures

    Reply
  8. Mike Farnell says

    May 30, 2019 at 8:47 pm

    I have visited Tassie every year except 1 for the last 15 years sometimes twice in a year. I have visited the Tarkine and other areas and would say they are all beautiful. Tassie is however becoming increasingly expensive if they want to keep tourists coming they will have to be careful they don’t price themselves out of the market

    Reply
  9. Paul Brennan says

    May 30, 2019 at 10:43 pm

    How would we go with our Avan caravan?

    Reply
  10. Bluey Schulte says

    May 31, 2019 at 12:26 pm

    Just spent 3 months touring around Tasmania in a 2010 Winnebago Esperance, we did the western coast in March, from far North-West corner where the huge wind farms are, to Arthur River and all points around, down to Corinna via 107 klms of dirt road across what we called the’ top of the world’, was really rough, sharp stones, switch-backs, poor old Winnie was chasing its tail most of the time but we got there with loss of 1 tyre, old original, but very hard to find someone to change tyres on a truck, even in the towns along the way, the coastal n timbered countryside was phenomenal, especially the ‘Edge of the World’ mentioned above, the Gordan River/ Macquarie Harbour cruise was great. We camped 50/50 Caravan parks n free camps, usually not free so to speak but for a gold coin donation, smallest fee for a night’s stopover was $5 so all in all Tasmania was worth seeing

    Reply
  11. Judith Alexander says

    June 2, 2019 at 5:15 pm

    Have always wanted to visit will definitely be planning my next trip to this part of Tasmania.

    Reply
  12. Tony Schmidt says

    June 11, 2019 at 8:48 pm

    And don’t forget to call into beautiful Waratah on your way to Corina,roadhouse with fuel and wholesome takeaways,weekend Gallery,coffee shop , museums,pub and a waterfall right in the middle of town,come see for yourself😀

    Reply
  13. Betty McCracken says

    June 11, 2019 at 10:42 pm

    I grew up on the West Coast but now live in WA I go back as often as I can on one trip we went down to Corinna and did the Pieman trip which I consider is better than the Gordon, but it is still home to me,Queenstown, cant get over how the vegetation is taking over the hills around Queenstown,as when we left in 1962 the hills were still bare,but the sunsets on those hills is something to see and admire,you don’t have to go to Uluru to see the changes of the sunsets.

    Reply
  14. Di Curtin says

    August 11, 2019 at 9:20 am

    Absolutely brilliant and only hope it stays off the grid and that the serenity is not invaded by tourists. However in saying that I would love to visit Tassie again, not seeing this side of the island before, would be wonderful to do. Thankyou for your insight into such a truly breathtaking area of our wonderful country.

    Reply
  15. Lenie Bennett says

    August 11, 2019 at 9:54 am

    I absolutely love tasmania, not on the west,Wijchen is my favorite, but all of it
    Great job,wish you were selling dvd,s

    Reply
  16. Diane McConachy says

    August 11, 2019 at 2:40 pm

    Loved it looks like heaven it’s now on my bucket list hopefully I will get there sooner rather than later

    Reply
  17. Ruth says

    August 22, 2019 at 7:50 pm

    It was lovely to remember that time exploring Corinna and the Pieman river trip to the heads and the joy we had playing mandolin and guitar on the veranda in such a magical location. Ruth and Guy

    Reply
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